All year long, Buenos Aires offers low prices on domestically produced clothing, as well as...
Santiago: One City, Three Hot Neighborhoods
Rent is on the rise in bohemian neighborhoods of old, so artists are venturing out to colonize other parts of the city. Here are three great examples in Santiago, Chile: Esmeralda, Matta and Loreto, where you’ll find fashion, art and dining.
photo: Una Velocidad, Esmeralda
photo: Atrevida Diseños
This street separates the neighborhood of Bellas Artes from the capital’s old quarter. The four blocks of Esmeralda begin with the cobblestones that lead to the Goethe Institute and end at the beautiful plaza in front of the Posada del Corregidor, one of the few 18th-century manor houses still standing in the Chilean capital.
In 2010, Esmeralda became densely populated with design shops, thanks in large part to the restoration effort overseen by cultural administrator Paulina Duarte and journalist Alejandra Rosas, who founded Barrio&Diseño in a historic, two-story home near the corner of San Antonio. The establishment is home to four design stores, including Armario Creativo, dedicated to independent fashion, and Mi Boliche, which focuses on vintage accessories. In addition, there’s Una Velocidad, an urban bike workshop. And on the same side of the street, you’ll find the hair salon Solo para Muñecas, which offers a distinctive pin-up style, with a staff specializing in spectacular hairstyles and makeup.
Across the street, the bookstore Cuarto Propio, which belongs to the publishing house of the same name, offers a variety of novels and essays from national and international publishers, as well as a small selection of graphic novels.
1. BARRIO&DISEÑOEsmeralda 775-777
2. ATREVIDA DISEÑOSEsmeralda 731, local 2
3. SOLO PARA MUÑECASEsmeralda 759
4. LIBRERÍA CUARTO PROPIOEsmeralda 756-B
5. BICICLETAS UNA VELOCIDADEsmeralda 775
Av. Matta & Barrio Franklin
photo: Casa Payaso
The clowns were the first to colonize Matta (with Calle Cuevas), starting in 2000 with the event production house Casa Payaso and continuing in 2006 with Casa Bufo and the store Cabeza de Martillos, where you can find everything from juggling clubs to unicycles. Nearby, on the corner of Calle Portugal, you’ll find the bar Clandestino, which features live music.
For more nightlife, head to the corner of Matta and Santa Rosa. Events of all kinds are celebrated at the discotheque Espacio Arte Matta.
Continuing on Santa Rosa, you’ll reach the popular neighborhood of Franklin (on the corner of the same name). One of the newest additions to the area is the Factoria de Arte Santa Rosa. Following the earthquake that rocked the country in 2010, many of the tenants of the busy meat and vegetable market Mercado Biobío had their stalls razed. About 100 vendors relocated to the warehouse that was once the Musalem textile factory. In addition to welcoming these new businesses, the Musalem family adapted a space for use as an art gallery. It’s an interesting haven for culture in the middle of ceaseless commercial bustle. For a taste of the local nightlife, visit the popular Club Matadero, showcasing Chilean culture, with plenty of national music and food.
1. CASA PAYASOAv. Matta 353
2. CASA BUFOAv. Matta 636
3. CABEZA DE MARTILLOAv. Matta 361
4. BAR CLANDESTINOAv. Matta 310 & Portugal
5. ESPACIO ARTE MATTASanta Rosa 1095 & Av. Matta
6. FACTORÍA DE ARTE SANTA ROSAAv. Santa Rosa 2260
7. CLUB MATADEROSanta Rosa 2260 & Calle Franklin
photo: Vietnam Discovery
In Chile, the term picada refers to places that serve good food without necessarily being five-star, gourmet establishments. Loreto is located between the commercial neighborhood of Patronato (filled with clothing and import stores) and the bohemian neighborhood of Bellavista (northwest of the Río Mapocho). The semi-industrial street of Loreto was home to textile factories for decades and today features some of the city’s most notable picadas.
Loreto gets a dose of Eastern flavor from Patronato. The neighborhood was populated initially by settlers from the Middle East and now by Korean and Chinese immigrants. Loreto offers a variety of Eastern flavors. For example, Sukine, a simple Korean restaurant, features a robust menu of 20 main dishes, many of them prepared barbecue style, but with Asian seasonings.
On Loreto, past Santa Filomena and right next to a humble soda fountain, you’ll find Vietnam Discovery. Owned by a Vietnamese chef and her French husband, this restaurant offers a select but satisfying menu, featuring fish marinated in sweet-and-sour sauce and sautéed in ginger. They also serve some amazing soups.
Night owls can begin the evening with drinks at the bar El Toro, near the start of the street, by the Mapocho, before heading to two of Santiago’s most exclusive clubs, Onaciú and Bar Loreto.
1. SUKINEAntonia López de Bello 244 & Loreto tel: 56-2-735-8693
2. VIETNAM DISCOVERYLoreto 324
3. EL TOROLoreto 33
4. ONACIÚLoreto 460
5. BAR LORETOLoreto 435
Daily flights to Santiago from Buenos Aires, São Paulo, Guayaquil, Lima, Madrid, Miami and Montevideo.For more information, visit lan.com
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