São Paulo Capital
With São Paulo Fashion Week, the exclusive shops on Rua Augusta, the city’s many malls and endless offerings in Bom Retiro, the largest city in the Americas has established itself as an epicenter of fashion. These streets provide the setting for our 2015 Fashion Special.
Text: FRANCISCO PARDO U. @panshopardo
Your first order of business is to cross Avenida Paulista at Rua Augusta. But instead of going all the way to the other side of this asphalt river, stop on the median, slow your pace and find the city’s rhythm. Become invisible and observe the endless stream of cars, the people who walk past, completely absorbed in their own affairs. Check out their style: you can learn so much about someone just by looking at their shoes. Or gaze into the eyes of the weary masses, coming to and from work; most of them could care less that caramel is the hot, new color. And then the rain starts – the classic São Paulo drizzle – and umbrellas begin to appear. For 20 minutes, the city assumes the ash-gray tone that is a trademark of every big city.
This mega-city certainly has its credentials. Home to 11 million inhabitants (in the municipality alone), São Paulo is Brazil’s most popular tourist destination, a cultural powerhouse with more than 100 museums, 20,000 bars, 15,000 restaurants, 5.5 million cars and 400+ helicopters (for those who like to avoid traffic jams). It’s also the largest financial center in Latin America. In short, you can find it all in São Paulo, and on a grand scale. The city fondly known as “Sampa” attracts people from all over Brazil who are looking to make their dreams come true. Like Sinatra’s New York, “if you can make it there, you’ll make it anywhere.” Or in the words of Marcelo, a Chilean who has lived here for 43 years: “The sun shines for everyone. If you have something you want to share, this is the place.”
Grab some headphones, and use a playlist as your compass for exploring one of the many urban identities that make up São Paulo. Caetano Veloso once sang that something happened in his heart only when he crossed the streets of Ipiranga and Avenida São João, a symbolic intersection in a downtown area that offers a study in contrasts a few blocks further along: the modern lines of the fabulous Praça das Artes cultural center next to a building that has been taken over by MTST, a group that repurposes abandoned structures. A few steps further along, you’ll reach the gorgeous Theatro Municipal, which dates back to the early 20th century. Take a break at its café, Santinho, to appreciate the nearby Mirante do Vale, the city’s tallest building at 560 feet.
Buildings. If one thing stands out in São Paulo, it’s the city’s concrete towers, and taking in the city from the top of a skyscraper is a must. There’s the Banespa, which looks like something out of New York, or the Martinelli, Brazil’s first skyscraper, with a history only surpassed by the panoramic views offered from its rooftop balconies. You’ll be transfixed by the sights below, the millions of stories that stretch as far as the eye can see. “There’s no love in SP / a mystical labyrinth / where the graffiti screams,” says Criolo in your headphones. Is love possible in a mega-city? Can tenderness and empathy survive in the grueling reality that Chico Buarque describes in the song “Cotidiano”?
Of course, what paulistas love most is fashion and design. In the neighborhood of Jardins, Rua Oscar Freire serves as a comprehensive showcase for the exclusive São Paulo lifestyle.
The people of São Paulo sure love their Italian food! Check out these three spots.
Text: Priscila Pastre
This cozy cantina serves up a successful combination of tradition and innovation. All the pastas are fresh and homemade, while the sauces are sophisticated without being over the top. Don’t miss the fagottini, stuffed with carrots and served with oxtail and tomato sauce.
Rua Ferreira de Araújo, 314
A small house in the bohemian neighborhood of Vila Madalena reinvents tradition. Elsewhere in São Paulo, large pizzas are sliced in eight pieces meant for sharing, but Carlos follows Neapolitan tradition, with small, individual pies.
Rua Harmonia, 501,
A franchise of a brand first established in Torino, Italy, this market in São Paulo’s Itaim neighborhood is a sophisticated destination for foodies and weekend chefs. The impeccable quality of the products makes them well worth the price.
Av. Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek, 1489
Sunday in the park
In a city dominated by concrete, people crave space, and this need for outdoor life has prompted initiatives like parklets, temporary urban interventions that extend the sidewalk and turn parking spots into little public havens. Here, locals can rest, talk and even celebrate. It’s a show of sympathy for the city’s residents, reflected by Minhocão, a two-mile-long viaduct that doesn’t allow cars from 3:00 p.m. on Saturdays through 6:30 a.m. on Mondays. Popular among cyclists, pedestrians and their pets, the viaduct is meant to ultimately become a park. A triumph for those fighting for a city on a human scale.
And speaking of parks, we have to mention Parque Ibirapuera. It’s the “beach” for the people of São Paulo, their Central Park, a place where people from different parts of the city come together. As you walk along Avenida 23 de Mayo towards Ibirapuera, with Emicida on your headphones, you’ll see a 20×330-foot mural by local artist Kobra. It’s part of his Muro das Memorias project, which depicts São Paulo scenes from the past century that serve as windows into a city that no longer exists. Inside the park, São Paulo comes to life under the sun, inviting you to forget about concrete for a while as you enjoy the greenery, lagoons and a series of museums designed by Niemayer. Last year, Kobra painted several murals here to celebrate the park’s 60th anniversary. One of them shows a boy with a huge smile, the same expression you see on the faces of paulistas as they stroll, unhurried, under the glow of the Sunday sun. in
Daily flights to São Paulo from Santiago, Buenos Aires, Lima and Bogotá.
For more information, visit lan.com
Daily flights to São Paulo from Santiago, Buenos Aires, Lima, Madrid, Frankfurt, London, Miami and New York, among other cities.
For more information, visit tam.com.br
Avenida Paulista 2181, Consolaçao
Tryp Nações Unidas
Rua Fernandes Moreira 1264
Rua Dr. Melo Alves 368
Rua da Consolação 3453
Alameda Lorena 2016
Bars & Restaurants
Rua Delfina 163
Alameda Lorena 2008
Rua dos Pinheiros 320
Padoca Do Mani
Rua Joaquim Antunes 138
Praça Ramos de Azevedo 1
Rua Aspicuelta 544
Centros culturales de completa programación.
Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS)
Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa
Praça das Artes
Avenida São João 281
Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral, Puerta 10, Vila Mariana
Rua São Bento 397-413
Elevado Presidente Costa e Silva