São Paulo Capital

With São Paulo Fashion Week, the exclusive shops on Rua Augusta, the city’s many malls and endless offerings in Bom Retiro, the largest city in the Americas has established itself as an epicenter of fashion. These streets provide the setting for our 2015 Fashion Special.

Text: FRANCISCO PARDO U. @panshopardo
       

 

Your first order of business is to cross Avenida Paulista at Rua Augusta. But instead of going all the way to the other side of this asphalt river, stop on the median, slow your pace and find the city’s rhythm. Become invisible and observe the endless stream of cars, the people who walk past, completely absorbed in their own affairs. Check out their style: you can learn so much about someone just by looking at their shoes. Or gaze into the eyes of the weary masses, coming to and from work; most of them could care less that caramel is the hot, new color. And then the rain starts – the classic São Paulo drizzle – and umbrellas begin to appear. For 20 minutes, the city assumes the ash-gray tone that is a trademark of every big city.

 

 

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This mega-city certainly has its credentials. Home to 11 million inhabitants (in the municipality alone), São Paulo is Brazil’s most popular tourist destination, a cultural powerhouse with more than 100 museums, 20,000 bars, 15,000 restaurants, 5.5 million cars and 400+ helicopters (for those who like to avoid traffic jams). It’s also the largest financial center in Latin America. In short, you can find it all in São Paulo, and on a grand scale. The city fondly known as “Sampa” attracts people from all over Brazil who are looking to make their dreams come true. Like Sinatra’s New York, “if you can make it there, you’ll make it anywhere.” Or in the words of Marcelo, a Chilean who has lived here for 43 years: “The sun shines for everyone. If you have something you want to share, this is the place.”

 

Music, Maestro

Grab some headphones, and use a playlist as your compass for exploring one of the many urban identities that make up São Paulo. Caetano Veloso once sang that something happened in his heart only when he crossed the streets of Ipiranga and Avenida São João, a symbolic intersection in a downtown area that offers a study in contrasts a few blocks further along: the modern lines of the fabulous Praça das Artes cultural center next to a building that has been taken over by MTST, a group that repurposes abandoned structures. A few steps further along, you’ll reach the gorgeous Theatro Municipal, which dates back to the early 20th century. Take a break at its café, Santinho, to appreciate the nearby Mirante do Vale, the city’s tallest building at 560 feet.

Buildings. If one thing stands out in São Paulo, it’s the city’s concrete towers, and taking in the city from the top of a skyscraper is a must. There’s the Banespa, which looks like something out of New York, or the Martinelli, Brazil’s first skyscraper, with a history only surpassed by the panoramic views offered from its rooftop balconies. You’ll be transfixed by the sights below, the millions of stories that stretch as far as the eye can see. “There’s no love in SP / a mystical labyrinth / where the graffiti screams,” says Criolo in your headphones. Is love possible in a mega-city? Can tenderness and empathy survive in the grueling reality that Chico Buarque describes in the song “Cotidiano”?

Of course, what paulistas love most is fashion and design. In the neighborhood of Jardins, Rua Oscar Freire serves as a comprehensive showcase for the exclusive São Paulo lifestyle.

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Between stores from internationally known brands, you’ll also find local businesses like the shoe stores of Ciao Mao and Melissa, the clothing store called Cotton Project and a branch of Havaianas, synonymous with the Brazilian beach spirit. Just a few blocks away is D.O.M., the restaurant run by rock-star chef Alex Atala and number nine on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Want more? Check out these three recommendations. Bossa is a combination bar/restaurant/recording studio run by electronica DJ and entrepreneur Renato Ratier. On the other side of Avenida Brasil is Padoca do Mani, a spinoff of the famous Mani, an excellent breakfast option following a tour of the most visited museum in 2014. Just a ten-minute walk away, the Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) celebrated its 45th anniversary this past May.

 

São Pasta

The people of São Paulo sure love their Italian food! Check out these three spots.
Text: Priscila Pastre

EATALY SAN PAOLO_laboratorio de pasta

PIÙ

This cozy cantina serves up a successful combination of tradition and innovation. All the pastas are fresh and homemade, while the sauces are sophisticated without being over the top. Don’t miss the fagottini, stuffed with carrots and served with oxtail and tomato sauce.

Rua Ferreira de Araújo, 314
www.piurestaurante.com.br

CARLOS

A small house in the bohemian neighborhood of Vila Madalena reinvents tradition. Elsewhere in São Paulo, large pizzas are sliced in eight pieces meant for sharing, but Carlos follows Neapolitan tradition, with small, individual pies.

Rua Harmonia, 501,
Vila Madalena

www.carlospizza.com.br

EATALY

A franchise of a brand first established in Torino, Italy, this market in São Paulo’s Itaim neighborhood is a sophisticated destination for foodies and weekend chefs. The impeccable quality of the products makes them well worth the price.

Av. Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek, 1489
www.eataly.com.br

 

Sunday in the park

 

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In a city dominated by concrete, people crave space, and this need for outdoor life has prompted initiatives like parklets, temporary urban interventions that extend the sidewalk and turn parking spots into little public havens. Here, locals can rest, talk and even celebrate. It’s a show of sympathy for the city’s residents, reflected by Minhocão, a two-mile-long viaduct that doesn’t allow cars from 3:00 p.m. on Saturdays through 6:30 a.m. on Mondays. Popular among cyclists, pedestrians and their pets, the viaduct is meant to ultimately become a park. A triumph for those fighting for a city on a human scale.

And speaking of parks, we have to mention Parque Ibirapuera. It’s the “beach” for the people of São Paulo, their Central Park, a place where people from different parts of the city come together. As you walk along Avenida 23 de Mayo towards Ibirapuera, with Emicida on your headphones, you’ll see a 20×330-foot mural by local artist Kobra. It’s part of his Muro das Memorias project, which depicts São Paulo scenes from the past century that serve as windows into a city that no longer exists. Inside the park, São Paulo comes to life under the sun, inviting you to forget about concrete for a while as you enjoy the greenery, lagoons and a series of museums designed by Niemayer. Last year, Kobra painted several murals here to celebrate the park’s 60th anniversary. One of them shows a boy with a huge smile, the same expression you see on the faces of paulistas as they stroll, unhurried, under the glow of the Sunday sun.  in

 

 

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Of the city’s many lodging options, Hotel Meliá Paulista stands out thanks to an excellent location – on Avenida Paulista, just a short walk from the subway – as well as great service and comfortable rooms. It’s an excellent choice, whether you’re traveling for business or pleasure. Our sincere thanks for all their assistance. We’d also like to thank TRYP Nações Unidas hotel for their help with our fashion feature. 

 

São Paulo Capital

ART DIRECTION
Ignacio Poblete

FASHION PRODUCTION
Bernardita Del Solar @bernarditadelsolar

GENERAL PRODUCTION
Francisco Pardo (Santiago) &
Carla Peirano (São Paulo)

PHOTOS
Hick Duarte @hickduarte

PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT
Raphael Diniz @phaeldiniz

MAKEUP & HAIR
Dindi Hojah @dindihojah

MODELS
Ford Models Brasil @fordmodelsbrasil

Fashion Websites

ADIDAS ORIGINALS
www.adidas.cl
BÁRBARA BRIONES
www.barbarabriones.com
BASEMENT
www.basement.cl
BROOKS BROTHERS
www.brooksbrothers.com
CLAUDIO MANSILLA
www.claudiomansilla.cl
MONTEMARANO
www.montemarano.cl
ETIQUETA NEGRA
www.etiquetanegra.us
FALABELLA
www.falabella.com
H&M
www.hm.com
LA MARTINA
www.lamartina.com
LOUIS VUITTON
www.louisvuitton.com
MANGO / HE BY MANGO
www.mango.comshop.mango.com
PRÜNE
www.prune.com.ar
RODRIGO HENRÍQUEZ
www.flickr.com/photos/rodrigohenriquez
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
www.ferragamo.com
SINGOLARE
www.singolare.cl
TOMMY HILFIGER
www.global.tommy.com
TOPSHOP
www.topshop.com
TOUCHÉ
www.touche.com.co
ZARA
www.zara.com

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