From alternative bars to aristocratic castles, this city offers a journey through time like no other, and it’s less than two-hours drive from Munich. Check out Germany’s latest top destination while it’s still relatively unknown.
Text: Martín Echenique @martinechenique | photos: lorenzo moscia @lorenzomoscia | map: manuel córdova @thechumbeques
Cafés & Bars
The art of drawing in cappuccino foam is taken quite seriously here. Barista Luzia Taschler won the World Latte Art Championship in 2012, and this year, she served on the jury. All their coffees are 100% organic and imported from places like Brazil, Rwanda and Kenya. Don’t miss the Tres Estrellas from Bolivia, with hints of chocolate, grape and honey. On August 14, the café will hold a coffee tasting. If you’d like to attend, just sign up on the website.
Obere Kieselbergstraße 13, Gostenhof
Strange as it might seem, what was once an inhospitable public bathhouse is now the hippest bar in Nuremberg. Across from Hallerwiese (a beautiful park to the west of the old city walls), Schnepperschütz has become a popular meeting place for young alternative types who come to enjoy a refreshing Aperol Spritz or craft beer produced on the outskirts of Nuremberg. Try to get there before 6:00 p.m. to get a table with a view of the park. If you’re too late, simply take a seat on the stairs near the entrance and blend in with the cool scene.
Am Hallertor 3, Altstadt
Located in the neighborhood of Gostenhof (a kissing cousin to Berlin’s Kreuzberg), this biergarten has served the best locally produced beer since 2004. Schnazerbräu offers a range of craft beers: some are unfiltered, while others boast three kinds of hops and are seasoned with spices. The food is also high quality, with classics like grilled meats and bratwurst.
Adam-Klein-Straße 27, Gostenhof
Also in Gostenhof, Café Mainheim looks like a hipster designer’s living room. This bookstore/café serves up organic pastries, noontime brunches, vegan salads and a cocktail menu with 11 options. A favorite is the Moscow Mule made with vodka, ginger beer and lemon juice and served in a copper mug. Cheers!
Bauerngasse 18, Gostenhof
Markets & Museums
The curved glass and metal beams of the modernist façade extend for more than 100 yards into the medieval heart of Nuremberg. Groundbreaking and avant-garde in its aesthetic, this museum was inaugurated at the turn of the millennium and is the only example of modern architecture built in the city’s old quarter. Don’t miss the collections of abstract art, design and installations dating back as far as 1950, with a special emphasis on artists from Eastern Europe. If you visit on Sunday, admission is only one euro.
Visit this tiny island on the Pegnitz in Altstadt (old town) to take a journey back to medieval times. The incredibly well-maintained Trödelmarkt is one of the nicest urban spaces in the city, with stores ranging from wooden toy shops (one of the city’s main industries) to places like Arauco, where you can find Brazilian and Spanish art alongside Chilean and Argentinean wines. In the words of owner, Chilean Alejandro Franco, it’s a true “Latin American embassy in Nuremberg.”
Trödelmarkt s/n, Altstadt
North of the Pegnitz River, the Hauptmarkt is the nerve center of Nuremberg life. Open Monday through Friday, this central square is home to stands selling fruit, vegetables, traditional foods and fresh flowers surrounded by historic architecture. While many of the buildings were reconstructed after World War II, the area evokes the best of a bucolic, feudal past typical of southern Germany. It’s a great option if you want to feel like a local (and save a few euros at lunchtime).
Hauptmarkt s/n, Altstadt
Faber-Castell: Art & Design
Next to the factory, the Faber-Castell castle looks like something out of a Disney fairytale. Since 1903, it has stood as the company’s architectural jewel, and today, it houses an Art Nouveau museum, with paintings by artists from Munich’s Academy of Fine Arts (Akademie der Bildenden Künste München). The tour takes a little over an hour, but if you haven’t made a reservation, the castle is open the third Sunday of every month to the general public. A must for artists and art lovers.
Museum & factory
The world’s largest manufacturer of art supplies has its headquarters in Stein, just a little more than four miles from downtown Nuremberg. The visit includes a guided tour of nearly two hours through a plant that produces some 500,000 wooden pencils a day, and a visit to the historic museum further down the Regnitz River, where graphite pencil production originated in the 19th century.
Nürnberger Strasse 2, Stein
Daily flights to Madrid from Lima and Santiago and three flights a week from Guayaquil, followed by oneworld connections to Nuremberg.
More information lan.com
Daily flights to Frankfurt from São Paulo, followed by oneworld connections to Nuremberg.
More information tam.com.br