Renzo Garibaldi

This 31-year-old Lima native is an unusual Peruvian: first, for his stature (he’s 6’3”); second, for his trade (Garibaldi is Peru’s most famous butcher); and finally, for achieving this fame in a country that eats relatively little meat.
In late August, Garibaldi launched a steakhouse that makes meat lovers weep. The eatery is next door to the butcher shop he opened in July 2013 with resounding success. Already, there’s a two-month waiting list to enjoy the restaurant’s seven-course tasting menu. The shop and restaurant share the name Osso, which means “bone” in Italian. “Because there’s no good meat without bone,” says Garibaldi.
Peruvian diners are keen on choice beef imported from Argentina or the United States, but this habit is changing, thanks to Garibaldi: 80% of the meat he uses is sourced from Peru, it’s top quality and aged for at least 10 to 21 days (from 45 to 65 days for the rib eye). Natural dehydration helps the meat become tenderized over time.
“Peruvian beef is tough because of the local breed of cattle, what they’re fed and how long the meat is aged. It’s better to wait a while and let the meat become more tender as it releases myoglobin, the proteins that make the meat tough,” explains this happy butcher. Garibaldi is clearly passionate about the trade he learned from celebrated meat guru (and former vegan) Joshua Applestone and in the south of France as an apprentice to the seventh generation of a family of butchers.
At Osso there are no plates or cutlery – the meat is served directly on paper placemats. Diners eat with their hands, just like our ancestors did. After all, as Sex Pistols’ vocalist Johnny Rotten once said, “Meat isn’t murder, it’s delicious.”

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